Finally pulled the glovebox out and checked the Overdrive Relay switch. It looks fine but, after trying Art Benstein’s test of the current at the relay, it didn’t give a response. I’ve read that the circuit boards often need to be resoldered, so I’m thinking I need to bust it open and check, before springing $43 for the part.

I documented the installation of new brake pads and rotors with my buddy Andy last month. I edited the footage and here’s the video.

The brakes have held up well. No squealing, solid feeling, quick stopping.

I created an interactive how-to for changing the brake pads and rotors on a Volvo 240. Below is the step-by-step instructions. Consult a manual for more detail. I can’t be held responsible if you screw up and plow into your local 7-11 while stopping by for a 44oz Super Big Gulp of Cherry Coke.

• Prep: You’ll need 13 and 14mm sockets, box end wrenches, a torque wrench, a mallet, and channel-lock pliers. Raise car on jack stands and remove wheel.
• Remove Pads: Pull out small clips. Remove both pins holding pads in place. Squeeze pads against caliper. Pull out pads and shims.
• Remove Caliper: Unscrew bolts on back-side of caliper (13mm & 14mm). Pull caliper off rotor and use wire coat hanger to hang from coil spring.
• Replace Rotors: Remove small screws holding rotor in place. Knock rotor with mallet to dislodge, then pull rotor off of lug bolts. Install new rotor.
• Replace Caliper: Place caliper over rotor and screw in bolts. Torque to 100Nm (75 ft-lb) for front and 58 Nm (43 ft-lb) for rear.
• Install Pads: Apply anti-squeal goo to shim and affix shim to rear of pad. Squeeze caliper pistons and slide pads into slot. Replace pins, springs and clips.
• Break In: Top up the brake fluid in case some has been displace. Gently pump brakes a few times before driving. Drive cautiously for the next 50 miles or so, gradually increasing the pressure you apply to the brake pedal to ease the pads in place.

The Brick now has new brakes. I ordered rotors and pads from FCP Groton and was pleasantly surprised to find the vented ATE discs I purchased for the front were upgraded to ATE Premium slotted. I’m still breaking the pads in, but from the brief ride back home I can tell I’ve got a safer car. I’ll be posting video of the install soon.

My buddy has a set of 17″ rims for his Saab that we fitted on the Brick after doing the brakes. They look awesome, but they rub in the rear. The offset is wrong and I’d need to get wheel spacers. I was excited about the rims but now that I see that spacers will set me back $300 I’ll have to reconsider.

I changed the pads about 20k miles ago with some nice PBR Deluxe Organic pads. At the time I decided against changing the rotors. Now I need to go in and change the pads again because the rotors are worn out and need to be replaced.

The garage quoted $695 for pads, rotors and front wheel bearings. This included $180 for labor. I’m looking at parts costing about $250. Since I’ve done the pads before I know what to expect. Hopefully it’ll be easier this time because I cleaned the rust off. I’ll be sure to document.