I documented the installation of new brake pads and rotors with my buddy Andy last month. I edited the footage and here’s the video.
The brakes have held up well. No squealing, solid feeling, quick stopping.
I documented the installation of new brake pads and rotors with my buddy Andy last month. I edited the footage and here’s the video.
The brakes have held up well. No squealing, solid feeling, quick stopping.
Pingback: My Black Brick » Archives » Sparkling New Rotors?
Nice video! I first saw it on fcp’s site and thought that they had produced
it, but after coming to your blog through the brickboard, I’m glad to find
the original source. Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
I also want to compliment and thank you for this very clear and succinct video. I did my front brakes a while back based on it, and am now returning to it as I prepare to do the rear brakes. One question, though. Is it typically necessary to bleed the brake lines when this job is done? How would it show if bleeding the lines was needed? Is there an online resource that covers that procedure? Oops! That’s THREE questions. :[
Anyway, if you do kindly answer any one, or all three :) of my questions, please shoot me a quick email to let me know to check back.
Again, great video and great site.
It’s not necessary to bleed the lines but it’s a good idea.
Here’s a resource for bleeding brakes on the 700 series. Not sure if it’s the same for 200s:
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Brakes.htm#BrakeBleedingSequences
My car is exactly the same as yours… a 1992 black 240! I’ve been using your video to replace my pads and rotors, the front went without a hitch but I’ve hit a problem on the rear. There doesn’t seem to be enough room to get a torque wrench in between the spring and caliper mounting bolts to torque it down. Did you have this problem at all?
i think we just didn’t use the torque wrench in the tight spots.
Jay,
Link to this video is broken. Could you send to me please?
Thanks,
Sam
Video is embedded. The link is fixed.